Hawaii - The Big Island

Aloha!

We spent the month of February in Hawaii. We went at this time because it fits in with Bob’s work commitments coming up in March and beyond and also because it is the peak season to see humpback whales.

We spent the first week on The Big Island in a condominium in Kailua-Kona. It is a laid back touristy town on the west coast of the Big Island. All the Hawaiian Islands are volcanic so the issue is not whether you’re on volcanic rock but on the Big Island how old the land is and whether it’s potentially in the line of possible further volcanic eruptions. The airport at Kailua Kona is built on a less than 200 year old lava flow of a hopefully extinct volcano! Fortunately lava flows in The Big Island are not explosive but more gentle in nature so people would have time to evacuate if an eruption occurred.

                                The foreshore in Kailua-Kona with ever present palm trees.

The tropical climate allows wonderful growth - some plants that in Melbourne are only grown indoors.

When we arrived at Kailua Kona we were somewhat weary after about 19 hours since we’d left Melbourne. (We flew through Sydney and Honolulu en route.) We couldn’t move into our condo for a couple of hours so it seemed logical to get some supplies meanwhile. 
There was a Costco near the airport so we stopped there. This was not so smart! As most of you will know Costco is a large warehouse type supermarket that sells items in bulk for usually very competitive prices. They provide huge trolleys and most people seem to buy incredibly large amounts of supplies, which I’m sure are useful. However for us in our tired state and unfamiliarity with most of the product brands, as well as needing supplies for only a week and expecting to eat out a little it was overwhelming. We wandered around in a daze and were faced with several friendly but firm “excuse me pleases” when we blocked oncoming trolley wielding citizens on a mission. We decided we were a danger to others as well as ourselves, bought about 2 items and withdrew hopefully graciously! 
We did go back during our stay and were amazed at the range of products, many very cheap by Australian standards. They sell everything from luxury diamond rings to electronics of every type, linen, furniture, hearing aids, reading glasses and most food items.

We were delighted with our condo which was right on the beach within walking distance to the township and fairly newly renovated.

Can you see me waving?

We could sit on our lanai or terrace and look out through the palm trees at the ocean. We frequently saw whales blowing and sometimes breeching.

We found the people to be extremely relaxed and friendly. We were told by several people that The Big Island is very different to Maui. The pace is slower and people are more friendly. We met lots of Americans who spend part of the year there and part on the Mainland. Some own condominiums which they rent out when they’re not using them.
We were surprised at the excitement about the Superbowl – the grand final for American football. It seemed to us that we were far away from mainland America and apart from most news but this did not apply to the Superbowl. We decided to experience it with the locals and went to the local sports bar. We got there, as recommended, about 1 1/2 hours before it started and were lucky to get one of the last seats. We had clear views of 3 of the large televisions of about 6 that were in the room we were in.
The final was between the Seattle Seahawks and the Denver Broncos. It was predicted to be a very close match. Many people were dressed in team colours even down to the alternately orange and black fingers and toenails of a lady next to us. Another lady nursed a small dog with a scarf in team colours around it's neck. There were many giveaways and door prizes to add to the excitement while we waited.
I couldn’t believe it when my number was called and I won a Budlight folding chair. A very nice one it was too but not what I needed! I gave it away to a nice couple that we met and spent some time with.
The game started and a very pleasant women near us tried to explain the rules above the noise. It was not easy and quite some time before we even worked out which ends the players were working towards. It turned out to be a very one sided game with the Seahawks totally in command. The couple next to us barracking for the Broncos left at half time in a very dejected state. Probably a good move as there was no improvement in the Broncos performance in the second half!

Another day was great fun and very varied. It started with a walk along to Kailua-Kona for breakfast overlooking the sea. We decided to drive to the north of the island where you can look out at Maui - weather permitting.
First we stopped in the Kona Shopping Village to pick up some amazing fresh fruit from the market. (Papayas were in season and tasted amazing as were lilikoi or passion fruit.) Parking was difficult so Bob stayed in the car.
I went to pick up another purchase and was told that, as a reward, I could get a free gift next door. This sounded OK, even though I felt pressed for time. Before I knew it I was in front of a pearl bar. There are a few of these booths in Hawaii. I usually avoid them although I'm sure they're fun for some. I was told I could choose an oyster which would probably have a pearl in it. I said I was in a hurry and the very pleasant staff member said it would be very quick. After choosing an oyster shell we were required to thank it for producing whatever was inside. The growing process had taken many years and it needed to be thanked. Thanking involved the staff member ringing a gong and my shouting "Aloha." I didn't do it well enough the first time apparently so had to try again. Being loud and cooperative in such situations, especially for commercial purposes, is not my forte! The oyster was eventually opened and the two other staff members in the booth plus several ladies around agreed that it was a beautiful pearl. I still don't know who were employed by the booth and who were very enthusiastic bystanders. A small hole was made in the shell and all agreed that this pearl needed to be put in a special setting. The one they recommended had small diamonds around it and only cost $549! Anything less would not be adequate for this amazing pearl. This was not about to happen. I extricated myself by saying I would consult my husband and they reluctantly gave me the pearl in an envelope, where it remains. It probably seemed like a long time to Bob but I thought I did quite well under the circumstances! 
As stated previously the whole of Hawaii is volcanic so there are ample black desert like lava fields that stretch for kilometres. In some areas vegetation has grown on the lava and in the wetter areas it is very lush. 
On the north west coast of The Big Island, the driest part of the island, there are many luxurious resorts set on the beach amongst bare lava with some scrub land. You could call it a lava desert. The beaches, however are amazing. We stopped and had a swim at Mauna Kea which frequently vies with the nearby Hapuna for the best beach in the USA. It was beautiful. The water was warm and there were just enough waves to make it fun.

We drove further north, in increasing mist, to the towns of Hawi and Kapa'au. By the time we got there we couldn't see the end of The Big Island so seeing Maui and it's volcano was not a possibility. An ice cream later we drove down into the centre of the island alongside the extinct volcano of Kohala although it was very misty and we could not see it. 

We reached the town of Waimea and decided to have something to eat before travelling back to our condo. We stopped at the first restaurant we saw and went inside. It was just 6pm and there were a few cars so we decided it was probably popular and would be a good choice. It looked fairly ordinary from the outside. I was wearing shorts with a beach cover over after swimming and Bob was in beach shorts and a T shirt. I'd combed my hair briefly after swimming but it felt and probably looked like straw. 
We realised when we entered the foyer that we were somewhat under dressed judging by those around us. The staff were very welcoming and said that they had one table left and ushered us into a table in the middle of a beautiful restaurant. It became clearer and clearer that we were somewhere quite special. There were some beautifully and elegantly dressed diners and - well us! The decor was tasteful and beautiful. I was somewhat embarrassed when I touched my neck and got sand over my hand. I avoided getting up and going to the loo in case I left a trail of sand! We had a beautiful meal and the staff were friendly and helpful. We later discovered it - Merrimans - is very famous and most people book weeks ahead. We drove home in pitch darkness through, yet again, lots of lava fields.

One evening we went swimming with manta rays. Thirty years ago one of the resorts lit up the shoreline at night, to make a better view of the sea for guests and discovered that this attracted a form of plankton. Manta rays came to eat the plankton and a new tourist attraction was born. The resort closed in 2000 and turned off their lights. It was discovered the plankton and manta rays moved to another spot near the airport although there were no lights to attract them. We went out on a zodiac and just after dusk donned our snorkel gear and swam to a floating raft where you could hold on and watch the manta rays underneath. They are stinger-less and quite used to visitors. We saw about nine dancing around and eating the plankton near the small light that was placed there. It was a great experience although rough enough coming back in the zodiac that the trip after ours was cancelled. It's possible to dive with them too but we were happy snorkelling.

Volcanoes

After a week we left Kailua-Kona and drove around the south of the island to the active volcanic area. We passed lots of coffee plantations - Kona coffee is very high quality - and macadamia nut farms.
We stopped at Punalu'u Black Sand Beach. The black sand forms when lava flows shatter into small pieces on contact with water. Geologically they do not last long as the black sand eventually erodes into the ocean. 

Punalu'u is also famous for it's turtles. It's really fun spotting them in the water.

Mauna Loa and Kilauea are the two most active volcanos in Hawaii. Mauna Loa last erupted in 1984 but Kilauea, which is on the slopes of Mauna Loa and only recently been proven to be a separate volcano, has been erupting continuously since 1983. It is the most active volcano in the world and spurts hundreds of thousands of cubic yards of lava per day changing the land as it goes. It is very user friendly and laid back as volcanoes go. In fact locals are more likely to rush towards the volcano to see new flows than to run from them. Kilauea rarely erupts from the main crater and lava usually flows from a vent along a rift zone and travels towards the sea. Often lava tubes form and carry the lava in it. If they surface lava can flow on the surface and you can often walk very close to it. We were able to do this when we last visited this area about 15 years ago. 
This visit Kilauea was only erupting from a newly created vent. which it has been doing since 1992. There were also small flows in an inaccessible area only visible from the air and then only if you're lucky.
The volcanoes are in a well run National Park with a visitor centre with rangers and volunteers giving lots of information and a volcano museum. We arrived near dusk and were able to observe the flow from a distance. It was quite foggy so the flow was not easy to see when it got dark. We came back before dawn the next morning when it was clear. Then we got great views. What you can see is a reflection of the lava gurgling beneath and not the actual lava.
The first pictures are in the morning when it was still dark. 

Yes it was cold but so worth it.

And then when it got light.

We stayed 2 nights in the Volcano Village. It's a small village upslope of the crater so, although they're very close to the volcano lava is most unlikely to flow in their direction. It is quite an isolated area so supplies are expensive but we'd stocked up and prepared for that. It is set in rain forest and we stayed in a lovely cottage with an outside spa. We could have stayed longer.

There are some great walks in the Volcano National Park. We did the 6 kilometre Kileuea Iki. it starts going down through ancient rain forest, over a newly lava paved crater and back through rain forest. The lava crater was formed by the cone Mauna Ulu from 1969 - 1974. It poured lava over roads in the park that had to be reconstructed. It was strange to be walking on land that is much younger than me. There is still steam coming from some areas.

               Amazing to see some green coming back to what appears to be totally barren land.

                                        An old lava tube which you can now walk through.

                    A new road built through the lava flow after lava flowed over the last road.

           As you can see The Big Island has a lot to offer and we really enjoyed our time there.