The Great Baguette Hunt!

A couple of mornings ago Peter, Bob and I decided that we would like a baguette and jam for breakfast - followed by croissants later in the morning. We had moored near a town - Les Laumes the night before but had had only a short walk ashore. We had no idea where the centre of town and presumably the bakery was. The town appeared spread out and no one was around so we decided to follow our instincts and see what happened.

 Above - leaving the boat - the sign To Centre Ville (town centre) is helpful.
Two cats observed from a window but didn't give directions. A lady with a baby was otherwise occupied. We could have had some beauty treatment but the time was not right! Shoes were available but the shop was shut and that wasn't on our list.

 Finally someone to give directions - and Hey Presto around the corner it's market day. Clothes mmm - maybe not but beautiful strawberries and cherries to sample and buy. Even rotisserie meat.
And finally the bakery. Then a coffee and quick taste of the baguette before returning to the boat and enjoying the spoils. Lots of fun!

We're in France

Our Time in Paris

We flew to Paris overnight on Sunday. We had booked an apartment in the Marais for 2 nights for a reasonable price that looked good – and it was – when we got there! The company we rented from do not have an office so we needed to collect the key from a box in the foyer of an apartment block. The  envelope containing the key would give the address of the apt. which would be near by, and include instructions to get there. There were separate pin numbers to open the door of the apartment containing the key box and the box that contained the keys. This was achieved with relative ease. The apt block we were directed to was about 50 metres away from where we collected the keys. It took a bit of finding because it was around a corner and we didn't have a good map. But we made it! 

Then we needed another pin number to open the door to the courtyard of the apt block where we were to stay and (of Course) another pin to get into the apartment block itself and then – oh joy – a KEY to the actual apt. Very Parisian!  It worked although it would have been better if it was not cold and raining! And we were a little surprised to find it was in same street as shops like these but the courtyard inside was pleasant, and the apt. quite suitable with a compact kitchen including a dishwasher, microwave, frig and washing machine. As Bob said the loo cubicle was about the same size as the one on the plane but manageable!

The door to the courtyard of the apartment - third pin code needed! Inside the courtyard with room for children to play and ride bikes.

Below left and right the ambience of the area!

We decided to go out for a walk and as it was near where we’d stayed before revisited some streets we knew around the Pompidou Centre. It was still cold and wet and as it was a bank holiday not much was open. We disobeyed our rules of looking for somewhere to eat that is away from touristy areas - even a block back is often OK - and settled on a bistro type place that was at least warm.  We chose steak - maybe inadvisably - and our meal came with a tiny piece of steak and a Huge pile of chips and maybe two pieces of lettuce. It wasn't expensive but one can and should eat better than that in Paris! However a few minutes later two guys started playing - one on a keyboard and the other on a double base and they were excellent. Don't know if there's a moral but we had an enjoyable time after all. 

The next day was spent with frustrating experiences interspersed with pleasant interludes. We wanted to have internet access while we were on the canal boat and in Croatia, where we go next. Bob believed that this could be achieved by buying an internet personal wifi hotspot - and it could but from where and how was the problem. In short we went to five shops and got different "definitive" information from each, walked our feet off, ran out of time, caught a taxi, got caught in a traffic jam and ended up only slightly nearer our goal. 
We did have a lovely lunch in the middle of the day at a nice bistro. 
We packed a bag to store in Paris as we will not need it for the next few weeks. When we went to store it we found an American agent in the travel agency who gave us some excellent advice and booked us a Eurail pass for about half what we thought we'd need to pay. To say the European rail system is complicated is an understatement! E.G. By catching a train from Milan to Paris, in a few weeks, that does not go through Switzerland enroute (and would not stop there if it did)  we can buy a two country Eurail Pass instead of a three country and save a lot. How were we supposed to know that by going at a different time of day the train took a different route and bypassed Switzerland I don't know. We were fortunate to find someone who did.
That evening we were exhausted and it was still very cold - like around 5 celcius. I was (yes me!) a little disgruntled and tired and jet lagged of course. We stumbled into a small cafe for a glass of wine and light snack before heading back to the apartment. Bob's and my conversation was limited until a lovely young man at the next table started talking excellent English to us. He was in Paris on business. We talked for over an hour and yes I cheered up. He was born in Holland to a Norwegian mother and Flemish father and moved to Belgium at some stage and now works in Berlin and is married to an Irish girl from Tipperary. And he speaks fluent Dutch, Norwegian, Flemish, German, French and English with Italian thrown in. Such people leave me in awe. He explained graciously that he'd been lucky to have the opportunities he's had and yes maybe bit I'm still in awe!

Djon

The next day we travelled to Djon by train and met our friend Peter whom we will spend the next few weeks with. We had a few hours in Djon so of course I had to look at mustard. There are other things to do in Djon but this has to be up there! Look at this beautiful display of mustards.

Other views of Djon. It has a variety of architectural styles including these beautiful old half timbered houses above and the city fountain below. Nosey me can never resist looking into open gates and this lovely house and greenery were behind on this occasion (top right).

I Missed Out on an Experience

In Djon knowing that life would be pretty simple for the next few weeks on small boats I decided to treat myself to some nice body moisturiser and foot cream (given my feet were still aching from the walking on hard surfaces the day before in Paris). L'Occitane seemed like a good choice as it is a French brand and a cheaper than in Australia. I told Bob I'd see him in a couple of minutes. I went into the shop and was greeted with the usual "Bonjour Madam." The lone shop assistant then proceeded to continue dealing with the French lady who was already in there. It was such a process. The assistant walked her around the shop and she sampled lots of things and chose some. Time went by and I waited. I'd already chosen what I wanted although was not brave enough to take it from the shelves and risk upsetting the beautiful displays. The lady seemed to finalise her purchases but when the assistant seemed to be gift wrapping each one separately and after about ten minutes had gone by in total I left. The assistant sounded surprised I left but said "Au devoir Madam" never the less. We walked around Djon a bit and I had another try at the L'Occitane shop - again telling Bob I wouldn't be long. Another customer was just leaving so I got served quickly. The assistant only spoke a few words of English but started to show me  various creams etc. She had all the time in the world for me. I cut her off and told her what I wanted and that they didn't need to be gift wrapped.  She still made the purchase an event and gave me some samples AND even sprayed the tissue she put in the bag with a lovely perfume. In talking about it later to Peter I realised that this is the way the French do things. They do not hurry and are prepared to wait for service but expect service when it is their turn and there is an art to the whole process that they enjoy and is very civilised. And I think there's a lot to be said for it. Very different to my idea of a "quick as possible" interaction.

More of New York

Shoes

There are lots of shoe shop windows with these amazingly high heels. It occurs to me - who wears them. Well top left and bottom right were in Times Square. Left, my favourites were, (as you would!) at the famous Joes Pizza Restaurant in Greenich at 11.30 am.

THE HIGHLINE

What do New Yorkers do with an old raised railway line that
is no longer used. Why turn it into a raised walkway - grow
 indigenous plants to the area, put in some sculpture displays,

seating and cafes and everyone has a good time. It is such a peaceful place in the middle of the city. People use it to hang out, walk, have lunch or practice their gymnastics!

 Punk Exhibition

These photos are from the window of Goldman Sachs - a big store on Fifth Avenue. They are promoting the Punk Exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum which I went to.  I found it really interesting. It followed the punk movement who wanted to be different and oppose a lot of societal norms but somehow ended up creating a fashion that still influences designs today.

Finally

You'd better believe it. there are some crazy people in New York!

These were in Times Square. Left the singing cowgirl and right someone trying to make a buck.

Bottom right

We were walking down Fifth Avenue and there was a long line outside the shop Abercrombie and Kent - like they were queuing to be allowed to buy. We went back later and the queue was gone but this model was still there. I'm 5 foot 6 so how tall is he? I did notice his abs had makeup on them but he's still an impressive specimen!

 

New York - a great sighting and other things

We have had a great time in New York. It is a great town. My perception is that it is better for tourists in many ways. It seems that many people that live here permanently work very long hours and do not have a lot of opportunity to enjoy the town. The couple where we are staying are an example of this.
We have been lucky to stay in the apartment of friends of friends - thank you Nikki! Shawn and Steve are a lovely couple and live in a 2 bedroom penthouse in Murray Hill which is in mid town on the east side of Manhattan. 4 blocks from Grand Central Station. They rent a room to visitors through word of mouth. It is about half the price of a hotel and much nicer. I can give anyone who wants it the details and more information about staying here. Shawn is a designer of high end ties and travels often to Italy to source fabrics. She has contributed some lovely ones for the males in our family. She works very long hours and our conversations have been late at night into the early morning. Who cares with jet lag anyway! Steve is in finance and travels a lot. They have 2 terraces - not grand Australian size but much prized in NY. So they have tables and chairs set amongst pipes and air conditioning outlets etc but they can see the Chrysler Centre and the Empire State Building which are really close.
New York has changed so much over recent years.  It is still high energy but people have been really kind and welcoming. We've started talking to people at bus stops etc. including a policeman who worked through Sept 11 and a lady who owns a restaurant in East village that we went back to for breakfast.
There seems so much we didn't do but we have done a lot - 2 organised walks. One a food and culture tour of Greenwich Village which is a foodies mecca and quite trendy. And two a tour of Harlem which is becoming gentrified. We ate at a soul food restaurant called Sylvia's. She died last year at 86 but was a pioneer black women who started cooking from her kitchen. Her family still run the business. I had fried chicken, collared greens and candied yams -delicious. We ate early and sat on the pavement near a train station exit with lots of people returning from work I guess. It struck me there was no such thing as "normal" with every colour, dress, age, size of person imaginable - truly cosmopolitan and you never have to worry about being normal again!
We were told the boroughs off Manhattan are the new trendy places so we went to Brooklyn and then Williamsburg and bohemian and trendy it was! Lots of young mobile people again of all persuasions. We went to a restaurant called Sweet Chick and although we're not their target demographic I think we got a table at the window and saw the world go by. We shared a delicious asparagus salad and then had chicken with (bet you didn't guess) waffles! Mine were herb and mushroom flavoured. We then shared a pecan and bourbon pie which was delicious. Meals are very reasonable. This meal cost $88 with a beer and 2 wines included.
I went to the Metropolitan Museum today and saw an exhibition of how impressionist artists chose the clothes their models should wear. It was an era n the late 19th century when ready made clothes were becoming available. They thought it was important to show the latest trends. They even had some clothes from the era to illustrate. there were beautiful fans - some with silver thread and lovely shawls and hats beside the paintings they were similar to.
This made an interesting contrast to the punk costume exhibitionI saw earlier in the week.
Now for the big sighting.

Look at the picture above right of the model boat lake at Central Park with some very expensive real estate on Fifth Avenue behind. Now look at the closer photo of the apartment block - in particular above the top arched middle window. Now look left and see these red tail hawk eyeasses (babies) in their nest. I've been following the movements of their father Pale Male who is a New York identity for some time on line - and yes you can say I'm obsessed by his style. He's been in New York since  the early 90's.Red tail hawks mate for life but his mates have died of various causes and he's now with his 8th - called Octavia - can you guess why! He's fathered 30 - 40 chicks many who now populate New York. When the birds first nested there the building owners cleaned it away and installed spikes to stop them coming back. There was an outcry from nature lovers, including Mary Tyler Moore who lives in the building and they are now tolerated. Pale Male  has his own website and a filmand books written about him. As said I admire his style.

Bob was able to get these pictures with his zoom lens. So now I've seen one of my idols and, as said I like his style!

MORE PHOTOS OF CENTRAL PARK

Central Park is a full of a variety of scenes
including lots of dog walkers, lovely gardens,
opportunities to look stupid with a actor being a
statue (yes I know!) and even a wedding.