Kenya 4

14/9/13

We left the Lodge at 5.30 am and drove to where we were to take off on a balloon ride over the Masai Mara. Our group got allocated the smaller of 2 balloons that would take 9 of us. We watched as the balloons were put out and blown up. We were about to get in our balloon when they turned off the burners and the pilot Sherry said that it was too windy and she was not going to fly today. Some of the group were a bit upset because the other heavier balloon left. Bob and I felt that safety comes first and understood her decision. Apparently the landing is the hardest part and the wind was likely to be stronger then. We later heard that the big balloon had had a very bumpy landing.

So we went back to the hotel for breakfast and left earlier than planned for a game drive. We drove down to the Mara River where the guides had heard that wildebeest and zebra were concentrating in preparation for crossing. We got a good spot in our vehicle about 50 metres from where there was a huge number on the river bank and going up the hill behind.

  We waited for about 45 minutes viewing this spectacle. The wildebeest came down to the water and even step in and then go back again. They can do this for hours and it’s quite tantalising watching them. The zebras have the reputation of being more decisive and if they come down generally cross straight away.
                                           

                                                            Thinking, thinking.

                                                     Not if a hippos in the way.
                   

There were about 8 crocodiles on the banks or in the water – some of which were about 6 meters long.

                      These hippos just lay around on a bank nearby sunning themselves.

These Little Bee-eaters were happy to pose on a branch nearby.

After 45 minutes or so the first wildebeest went and suddenly it was all on. For about 10 minutes they swam across the 30 metres of flowing water about 3 or 4 thick. 

                                          The crocodile is in waiting for these zebras.



 It seems from the look on this zebras face he knew his time was up - and it was. The crocodile got him.

A real bottleneck developed on the other side because there were only a couple of pathways up quite a steep bank. Some had to balance on the bank precariously. 

This wildebeest seemed to decide getting up the bank was all too hard and swam back to the other side and then later swam back again - unscathed but talk about pushing your luck!
About 3 animals got taken by crocodiles – 2 wildebeest and one zebra as far as we could see. You could see them swimming to where the crocodiles were waiting, the crocodiles opened their mouths and held them underwater to drown them.  All too far way for my little camera but Bob got some good pictures. For me it was not as gruesome as I’d psyched myself up for. Most got through unharmed and 2 or 3 of the crocodiles must have been full and made no attempt to catch anything. 

We watched for a while afterwards and 2 crocodiles held their catch in their mouths but stayed quite still underwater. You could see the wildebeests horns and the crocodiles heads partially above water. The crocodiles have to throw the catch into a roll and catch it in their mouths so that they can start eating it. One let it’s catch go and it floated down the river. Another crocodile might get it or hyenas will eat it if it’s close enough to shore. I’m told there’s not much waste here. That I find good because it somehow justifies the kill a bit.
So an adrenaline filled morning.
On the way back in a delightful antidote found a male and female lion sleeping under a tree beside the track. Apparently they are copulating at present and perform several times a day. They looked exhausted and hardly moved in the 45 minutes or so that we watched them.

                 
Totally exhausted and relaxed! Lions are lucky they're the Kings and Queens of the jungle and can relax in the open like this. Most or maybe all other animals need to be on their guard at all times.

                                                            Looks like true love to me!

Then in the afternoon we went for another game drive. The drivers had heard that there were 2 lionesses with 6 cubs living in a culvert. We looked in the morning and didn’t find then but they were there in the afternoon. We saw 2 lionesses and 3 cubs – all were a bit drowsy but it was good to see them. 

We went to look for the migration again as several hundred wildebeest were gathering near the river. We waited about an hour but they didn’t come down – maybe tomorrow.

15/9/13

We left Serena Lodge early and drove through the park on our way back to Nairobi. The idea was to look for game on the way out if it presented itself. It did. Norman spotted a hyena and thought it might be near lions so did some cross country driving. It turned out to be a lair of hyenas some of whom had just fed because they had blood on their mouths and faces. There were 3 babies and about 6 adults. One adult came back with a bone in it’s mouth to feed the pups. We sat and watched them interacting for a few minutes.

There were a lot more wildebeest in the park today. They are probably migrating from Tanzania. We should see the other end of them next week as we are traveling around in a circular motion and will end up in the north of Tanzania not far from the Kenyan border.

We were not far from the entrance when Norman heard on the radio that there was a leopard nearby. More cross country and we were right beside a beautiful leopard who walked slowly towards some bushes before lying down and disappearing. It was a great sighting – rare to see one so close and for so long.

                                                         Shall I come out in the open?

Oh Yes I will.

We drove back to Nairobi. The first part of the road is very bumpy and dusty. We went through Masai country and saw lots of Masai people – including quite young boys out herding their cows and goats. They were mainly wearing colourful shawls which are very distinctive. Most of the shawls are red which supposedly the animals are scared of. 

                                 I liked this - it's a telephone tower made to look like a tree.

We stopped at many African souvenir shops during our trip. This was one. Some had lovely carvings and the craftsmen working nearby. We didn't buy any but could appreciate the work involved.
They are also a great place to take a toilet break!

                                     You could even buy Masai shawls but again not for us.

This lady had also stopped. I don't know if she was going on safari but her heels and jeans colour did not match the dust and ruggedness of the area!

                                                              A Clive briefing to our group.

We again passed lots of small communities with shops etc. Some have a lot of rubbish around and others seem very clean.

                                              One of our lovely guide / drivers - Norman

It amazed me how many people were around often walking between settlements. Sometimes it would seem to be a long way from anywhere and you’d see people walking along the side of the road. Often they were carrying or talking on their mobile phones!

We went to Kuzuri beads in Nairobi which I’ve been hanging out for. I’ve seen and read about these beads. They started as a small cottage industry in Kenya employing single mothers who would otherwise have no income. The beads are made of clay and processed in kilns. Each bead is hand painted. It has now become a very successful business and provides work for many single mothers. I love the colours and textures of them. They are very expensive to buy in Australia and the US. – lots of middle people getting their cut I guess. I sang their praises and most of the women in the group bought some. When we were ready to leave the drivers discovered that we had a puncture – the third on the trip so far. I thought it was a good omen that we had more time to look at the beads while they changed the tyre!

So many beautiful beads – not good for the weight allowance!

We then went to the giraffe centre where I got kissed by a giraffe and have the photos to prove it! They are breeding the endangered Rothschild giraffes and are releasing them successfully back into the wild. 

Clive told us about Giraffe House where you can stay, for a large fee, which is built so that the giraffes can come and put their heads into your room and you can feed them while having breakfast.

                         Back to the Norfolk Hotel in Nairobi for a lovely swim and dinner.